The was the physically most difficult bike tour I’d ever done, and also intellectually difficult. The relationship between tourism, development, and place was also a consistent theme of the trip. For myself, I learned that I need to be less goal-oriented.

This was the last riding day; 60km to Ston, or 110km to Dubrovnik. Last night Robbie had kindly offered to ferry me in from Ston if I made it there in time. I woke up still feeling sick, and went back to bed for a couple of hours. I wasn’t sure I’d be able to ride at all, but eventually marshaled enough energy to catch up with the vans, just in time.

Vela Luka was a pleasant town which seemed like a place for local boat people; pretty but not super-touristy. It would be a short day to Korčula, with great riding, farms and vineyards with sea views, not much traffic. And I finally caught up with my friends!

I had a very pleasant breakfast on the plaza on a bright, sunny day. Finally out of the rain, I did some lubrication of a few rusting components and got on the road back to Stari Grad. Not pressed for time, today I would take the other road over the summit. It turned out to

Split is a major port city, with 25 berths for ferries and cruise ships, and today I’ll take one of the ferries out to the islands. My plan was to mostly chill out, check out Diocletian’s palace, and head to Hvar Island on the catamaran Vida, which I’d read online would take bikes, but that turned out not to be the case. So I took a later ferry and had to ride after dark again.

I really liked the look of Šibenik, so I had breakfast in the garden of the convent, then checked out one of the fortresses, and the basilica. This area of Croatia is full of white rocks; those became the basis for construction, so the cities sparkle. I had an easier day of riding through rolling hills, and over the ridge again to Split, though weather again played a factor.

This was, once again, supposed to be a mellow day, Just 85 km, and only one notable climb, near the end of the day. 250m max elevation. Easy, right? Except for the headwinds, lightning, hail, and forest fires.